Bhutan measures its progress by Gross National Happiness, a philosophy that asks what development is for. This sixteen-day journey takes that question seriously. It is a pilgrimage in the old sense: unhurried walking to hermitages and temples, time in meditation, and conversations with monks, scholars and people who think about how a country balances inner and outer wellbeing.
Ugyen spent thirteen years as a monk before he became a guide. Through him you are welcomed into places as a guest rather than a visitor: evening prayers and supper with monks at Tango, butter-lamp offerings with nuns in Punakha, and quiet hours at sites blessed by Guru Rinpoche in the eighth century. The pace is gentle and the itinerary flexible; summer brings green valleys and few other travellers.
