Food · Farms · Family kitchens

A Taste of Bhutan

A culinary journey with Punap Ugyen Wangchuk

Sample itinerary · tailor-made to you
Duration
12 days
Best season
August & November
Travel style
Private
Activity
Easy
Guide price
From US$6,200
Enquire
Overview

Bhutanese cooking is simple, generous and built on a handful of things done well: red rice grown on the terraces of the west, buckwheat from the high central valleys, farm cheese, and chillies – eaten as a vegetable, not a seasoning. To understand it you need to be in the kitchens where it is made.

This journey is led by Punap Ugyen Wangchuk, author of the Authentic Bhutanese Cookbook. It moves from the western valleys of rice to the buckwheat country of Bumthang, cooking with families, monks and farmers along the way. You will learn more than fifteen dishes – from ema datshi to momos, hoentay and puta – make butter and cheese, and come home with a copy of Ugyen’s cookbook.

Chillies drying on a roof below Tashichho Dzong
Punap Ugyen Wangchuk holding a bundle of fiddlehead ferns at a market
A bowl of freshly made momos
A grandmother and child by a farmhouse hearth
Stallholders at a Bhutanese market
Highlights

What makes this journey

Cook with families

Hands-on sessions in farmhouse kitchens, from momo-folding in Begana to Bumthang's buckwheat specialities.

A monastery kitchen

See how Tango Buddhist University feeds hundreds of monks, help with the cooking and share the meal.

Butter, cheese and chillies

Make butter and datshi cheese, and see chillies dried and ground for ezay in a farming village near Paro.

Kunzang Choden

Meet the writer Kunzang Choden at Ugyen Choling, whose work on Bhutanese food and village life is essential reading.

Ugyen's cookbook

Each guest receives the Authentic Bhutanese Cookbook, with 27 classic dishes.

Day by day

The itinerary

A suggested route. On a private journey we'll shape it around you.

Day 01

Arrive · Thimphu

Drive to Thimphu and stretch your legs on a short nature walk. Dinner at one of the city's best local restaurants.

Day 02

Thimphu

Buddha Dordenma, then the Centenary Farmers' Market to learn the ingredients. Lunch at the Folk Heritage Museum and dinner at Simply Bhutan with a cultural performance.

Day 03

Begana & Tango

Cook momos of different shapes and fillings in a family home in Begana. Walk up to Tango Buddhist University to help prepare the evening meal and eat with the monks.

Day 04

Over Dochula to Punakha

A traditional Bhutanese breakfast at Dochula. Tea and ceremonial snacks at Lamperi, lunch at a homestay, and an afternoon making zaw, roasted rice, in Lobesa.

Day 05

Punakha homestay

Visit Punakha Dzong, then walk to a village homestay to cook, take a hot-stone bath, and learn butter, cheese, Bhutanese pizza and puffed rice.

Day 06

Village life

A Bhutanese breakfast of dried meat, ezay and suja. A morning in the village, then evening prayers and supper with nuns.

Day 07

To Bumthang

East via Trongsa, stopping to cook lunch with a family on the way. In Bumthang, learn the valley's own dishes for dinner.

Day 08

Bumthang to Tang

Khuli buckwheat pancakes for breakfast, temples in the morning, then to Ugyen Choling to meet the author Kunzang Choden.

Day 09

Tang valley

A slow morning, then regional dishes in the afternoon and a visit to the palace museum and village.

Day 10

Trongsa to Phobjikha

Lunch and the Ta Dzong museum in Trongsa, then Gangtey Goenpa and a homestay in Phobjikha.

Day 11

Paro

A farming village near Paro to see red chilli dried, ground and made into ezay. Evening meal of Paro and Haa specialities.

Day 12

Tiger's Nest & farewell

Hike to Tiger's Nest, then a farewell dinner. Depart the following morning, or extend.

What's included

Taken care of

  • Private guiding and cooking sessions led by Punap Ugyen Wangchuk
  • Eleven nights in farmhouses, homestays and boutique hotels
  • All meals and cooking classes
  • A copy of the Authentic Bhutanese Cookbook
  • Visa arrangement and Sustainable Development Fee (itemised in your proposal)

Not included

  • International flights to and from Paro (we can book these for you)
  • Travel insurance
  • Drinks other than water, tea and coffee with meals
  • Tips for your guide and driver, which are always your choice
  • Personal expenses and souvenirs
Pace. Gentle to moderate. Plenty of standing and stirring; one longer hike.

As a travel writer, I work with guides (and photographers) on a monthly, often weekly basis. Ugyen Wangchuk, who I met on an extraordinary and constantly evolving journey for the Financial Times, immediately placed into my top three guides of all time. His range of knowledge, across nature, religion, myth, history and culture, runs very deep. It emerges naturally and gently.

Ruaridh NicollScotland